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Shriver HuffPost Social Reading [loader.gif] Some error occurred * Login with Facebook to see what your friends are reading * Enable Social Reading * i [loader.gif] * * * * Settings + Read Share Settings + Share everything I read + Share only things safe for work + Dont share what I'm reading + Read Share History + Learn More Michael Ruhlman Michael Ruhlman Author of the new Kindle Single, "The Main Dish," a food writer's memoir, and "Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry-Curing" GET UPDATES FROM Michael Ruhlman Like [DEL: :DEL] 34 Is Food Writing Important? Posted: 09/24/2012 9:08 am React [follow-arrow.png] Amazing Inspiring Funny Scary Hot Crazy Important Weird Follow [follow-arrow.png] Food , Cooking , Cooking-Dinner-Tonight , Eating , Food Writing , Sustainable , Food News share this story Submit this story digg reddit stumble I've been thinking about this a lot lately, and not least of all because I've always strived to distance myself from the pigeonhole called "food writer." Food is important, obviously. If we don't have it, we die. Writing about something so important should need no justification. And yet if I were called, say, an "environmental journalist," wouldn't that sound somehow more substantial, more serious than being a "food writer"? Isn't exploring the effect of increasing levels of carbon dioxide on our environment or the ecological impact of harnessing wind energy to reduce our reliance on fossil fuels more important than writing about, say, Salmon Tartare in a Savory Tuile with Red Onion and Crème Fraîche? A journalist embedded with American troops in Afghanistan versus a writer who waxes poetic on the glories of veal stock? There are, of course, diverse and good reasons to write about food, from aesthetic pleasures to consumer advocacy. Many books in which food is the central subject have had an extraordinary impact on the way we think about food, and our lives--Michael Pollan's Omnivore's Dilemma and Eric Schlosser's Fast Food Nation, of course, but also books by writers such as Paul Greenberg, Tracie McMillan, Mark Kurlansky, Barry Estabrook, Rowan Jacobsen (there are now too many to cite) that explore how our world is changed by the way we grow, distribute, buy, and cook food. Food writer Monica Bhide posed this question--does food writing matter?--on her blog, and I was heartened to see many smart responses from writers. Chief among the commenters was journalist and author Annia Ciezadlo, author of Day of Honey: A Memoir of Food, Love, and War (in which she writes, "I cook to comprehend a place I've landed in"). In response to Bhide's question, Cizadlo simply quoted George Orwell, from The Road to Wigan Pier, a book about class structure in 1930s England: "I think it could plausibly be argued that changes of diet are more important than changes of dynasty or even of religion. The Great War, for instance, could never have happened if tinned food had not been invented. And the history of the past four hundred years in England would have been immensely different if it had not been for the introduction of root-crops and various other vegetables at the end of the middle ages, and a little later the introduction of non-alcoholic drinks (tea, coffee, cocoa) and also of distilled liquors to which the beer-drinking English were not accustomed. Yet it is curious how seldom the all-importance of food is recognized. You see statues everywhere to politicians, poets, bishops, but none to cooks or bacon-curers or market-gardeners." I'm delighted to have these words disinterred from a 75-year-old book, because it states what should be obvious. Food is all-important. To write about what is all-important should need no justification. And yet it still seems to. Because food is all around us, everywhere, easy and cheap, we've taken it for granted. Do you ever stop to wonder how it is that you can buy pea pods 365 days a year, whether you live in Maine, Montana, or Manitoba? Few do. The fact is, most people don't think about food until they don't have any. Then it's pretty much all they can think about. And we don't think about food obsessively until it starts making us sick, which is what has happened in this country. Our food is making us sick in myriad ways. Our toddlers develop allergies unheard of when we were growing up. Children develop a type of diabetes once seen only in late adulthood. Obesity is rampant. And because of this we've become so hyperconscious of what we eat that we believe all kinds of nonsense. Dieticians once preached that eggs were bad for you--eggs! People far and wide still believe that fat is what makes you fat and that cutting salt and fat from one's diet will make a healthy person even healthier. The way we produce food is destroying the land, polluting rivers and oceans, debasing the animals we raise for food and the workers who slaughter and process them. Nothing good comes from shitting where you eat, and this is what America has been doing for half a century. People ask me the reason for today's intense interest in food and chefs and cooking. A serious book with a jokey title was written to explore just this, David Kamp's superb United States of Arugula. But I don't think you need a whole book that includes Eisenhower's highway system, war veterans returning from Europe, the increasing accessibility of international travel, and the impact of television to explain it. For me, it all comes down to the fact that we lost something vital when we stopped cooking our own food in the 1950s. And not cooking our own food has increasingly made us sick, to the point that we've become obsessive about food. Obsession over food has had some positive results, such as the call to eat local, sustainable, and humanely raised food. But obsession often leads to really bad ideas, like 100% raw diets and any number of loopy food imperatives otherwise intelligent people (see Steve Jobs) put themselves on. I'd love to see a study of life-long raw-dieters and life-long vegans and the effects on their reproductive systems. I'd wager they'd quickly self-select themselves out of the population (which is why, perhaps, we don't see many people who are life-long vegans and raw-foodists). I believe it's foolish to deny that we are human, which we do when we embrace nonhuman behavior. Almost everything our bodies and minds are capable of is represented in some part of the animal kingdom; primates even demonstrate theory of mind, and one species has nonreproductive sex, once thought to be an exclusively human activity. There are only two activities that set us apart, and we should take heed. First, humans are the only animals that cook their food. If we do not cook our food, or stay close to people who do, life is unsustainable; there have been no groups documented to have survived for long on an exclusively raw diet (convincingly documented in Richard Wrangham's book, Catching Fire: How Cooking Made Us Human). Second, humans are the only animals that generate narrative--that is, tell stories. Telling and hearing stories is, in fact, one of our primary, life-long activities, something we do all day and throughout the night. Sleep scientists have shown that if we are prevented from telling ourselves stories when we sleep, if our brains are prevented from dreaming, life is unsustainable. Cooking and telling stories. That's what makes us human. So telling stories about food and cooking is not only natural, it's necessary for our survival. It's important to understand how something that is essential to our humanity and our well-being affects all other aspects of our lives and our humanity. No one questions the need to explore string theory and economic policy, or asks for justification for art and literature. But people do question the seriousness of writing about food. I can go weeks without quantum physics or a good movie. Can't say that about food. I dream of a day when we no longer need to be obsessed with food, because that would mean that we had figured it out, we had all come to a common understanding of how to grow our food, distribute it, and consume it in ways that don't make us sick and crazy, but rather healthy and happy; that, rather than being guilty, fearful, and intimidated by food, we instead rejoiced in food; that we would cook together, with our families and friends, and then sit down to share this cared-for food and tell each other the stories of our day. This I think I was meant to do. To connect food with what I believe is fundamental to our lives and our happiness, to our humanity, and to do so through story. I will continue to write about many things, but I will never stop writing about food and cooking, what food and cooking means, to make it clear that cooking dinner is not a chore or a hassle, not simply the fulfillment of a bodily need, or even an indulgence, but is in fact fundamental to our humanity and to the health of our children and our children's children. It's all-important. Michael Ruhlman is the author of the new Kindle Single, The Main Dish, a food writer's memoir, and Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry-Curing Follow Michael Ruhlman on Twitter: www.twitter.com/ruhlman FOLLOW FOOD Like [DEL: :DEL] 25k ____________________ Get Alerts * Food I've been thinking about this a lot lately, and not least of all because I've always strived to distance myself from the pigeonhole called "food writer." Food is important, obviously. If we don't have... I've been thinking about this a lot lately, and not least of all because I've always strived to distance myself from the pigeonhole called "food writer." Food is important, obviously. If we don't have... More in Food... [trans.gif] As Restaurants Ban Photos, Some Worry About... [trans.gif] Subway Pledges To Ensure Every 'Footlong' Is... [trans.gif] The 11 Most Annoying Things Waiters Do... [trans.gif] Best Restaurant Cities: 15 U.S. Metro Areas... [display_comments_title.gif] * Comments * 31 * Pending Comments * 0 * View FAQ Comments are closed for this entry Community Notice: We've made some changes to our badge program, including the addition of our newest badge: Community Curator. View All Favorites Bloggers Recency | Popularity Page: 1 2 Next › Last » (2 total) photo Yvonne Maffei 53 Fans 02:55 PM on 10/10/2012 Michael, this is such a well-written and timely piece, thank you. I will be sharing. Yvonne_Maffei: Michael, this is such a well-written and timely piece, thank http://www.huffingtonpost.com/social/Yvonne_Maffei/is-food-writing-impo rtant_b_1903689_194943482.html History | Permalink | Share it This comment has been down-ranked into oblivion. View comment You have not right to carry out this operation or Error this operation. spinner Loading comments… photo HUFFPOST BLOGGER Paul Hughes Allergic to Bureaucracy 227 Fans 06:36 PM on 10/07/2012 Gr8 piece, Michael! Beef Recall and the Grim Reality of our Food System http://www.huffingtonpost.ca/paul-hughes/alberta-beef-recall-dangerous- lack-of-oversight_b_1934133.html hp_blogger_Paul Hughes: Gr8 piece, Michael! Beef Recall and the Grim Reality of http://www.huffingtonpost.com/social/hp_blogger_Paul Hughes/is-food-writing-important_b_1903689_194064157.html History | Permalink | Share it This comment has been down-ranked into oblivion. View comment You have not right to carry out this operation or Error this operation. spinner Loading comments… photo Ann Weiss-Lagravenese 23 Fans 02:49 AM on 09/29/2012 Thanks Michael for once again, bringing home the bacon. Just finished making a cookbook for a friend's baby shower, asking each guest to send me a favorite recipe with their baby picture. I was not surprised to see many of them to be recipes handed down from their own Moms and it made me so happy to see that the artistry that came out of the old-fashioned kitchens and how they still produce a good portion of the meals we still love to cook at home today. Ann_Weiss-Lagravenese: Thanks Michael for once again, bringing home the bacon. Just http://www.huffingtonpost.com/social/Ann_Weiss-Lagravenese/is-food-writ ing-important_b_1903689_191703877.html History | Permalink | Share it This comment has been down-ranked into oblivion. View comment You have not right to carry out this operation or Error this operation. spinner Loading comments… Bernadette Dryden 0 Fans 12:23 PM on 09/27/2012 Thanks for putting a fine and well-explained point on an important subject—that writing and reading about food is critical to understanding the fabric of local, national and international culture and life. Nothing has taught me more about people—strangers, as well as close friends—than how they interact with food. I thank my long-deceased mother every day of my life for having given me my most important life gift—teaching me to cook with love for those I love. Nothing says "I care for you" throughout the world more than food cooked with care and love. —Bernadette Dryden, Co-leader, Slow Food Katy Trail Bernadette_Dryden: Thanks for putting a fine and well-explained point on an http://www.huffingtonpost.com/social/Bernadette_Dryden/is-food-writing- important_b_1903689_191238539.html History | Permalink | Share it This comment has been down-ranked into oblivion. View comment You have not right to carry out this operation or Error this operation. spinner Loading comments… photo Gluten Free Foodies Living Gluten Free, loving Farmers Mkts 283 Fans 11:58 AM on 09/27/2012 Bravo! Gluten_Free_Foodies: Bravo! http://www.huffingtonpost.com/social/Gluten_Free_Foodies/is-food-writin g-important_b_1903689_191230569.html History | Permalink | Share it This comment has been down-ranked into oblivion. View comment You have not right to carry out this operation or Error this operation. spinner Loading comments… photo KaristasKitchen 71 Fans 07:10 PM on 09/26/2012 Brilliant Michael! "Food Should not only satisfy our hunger, it should feed our soul, nourish our body while delighting our senses" ~Karista Bennett KaristasKitchen: Brilliant Michael! "Food Should not only satisfy our hunger, it http://www.huffingtonpost.com/social/KaristasKitchen/is-food-writing-im portant_b_1903689_191058924.html History | Permalink | Share it This comment has been down-ranked into oblivion. View comment You have not right to carry out this operation or Error this operation. spinner Loading comments… photo MarcheDimanche 239 Fans 01:05 AM on 09/26/2012 My grandmother's recipe cards are sitting before me on my desk. They are brown now, and need rewriting and preserving in a digital environment. I can still smell her shampoo. I can still taste her stew. And so we pass memories, culture, love, and encouragement forward from generation to generation. Through recipes. Through stories about meals eaten. Through stories about meals cooked together. MarcheDimanche: My grandmother's recipe cards are sitting before me on my http://www.huffingtonpost.com/social/MarcheDimanche/is-food-writing-imp ortant_b_1903689_190822915.html History | Permalink | Share it This comment has been down-ranked into oblivion. View comment You have not right to carry out this operation or Error this operation. spinner Loading comments… photo miguelbron68 0 Fans 10:54 PM on 09/25/2012 There is always a first and last question in most mexican towns when visiting relatives... have you already eaten? do you want to take something home? being food or special dish the reason of the visit this is a ritual never forgotten should be rude not to be offered... I am still having a conversation with a spicy beef stew made of guajes and tomatillos finished with perejil served black broken beans and mexican rice with hand made tortillas in the middle of the day. priceless experiences that nourish you palate and calm your quest of being human, while enjoy a basic human feeling of being loved and having a understanding without thinking. miguelbron68: There is always a first and last question in most http://www.huffingtonpost.com/social/miguelbron68/is-food-writing-impor tant_b_1903689_190801466.html History | Permalink | Share it This comment has been down-ranked into oblivion. View comment You have not right to carry out this operation or Error this operation. spinner Loading comments… photo George Ujvary 11 Fans 07:53 PM on 09/25/2012 As always, another great piece Michael. Sadly, the majority of food writing that is 'important' is the least popular and we are deluged by the satisfaction of demand for the sort or writing that is not 'important'. To rub further salt into the wounds, those guilty of the majority of the 'unimportant' stuff are those whose only stake in the food industry is their own popularity. George_Ujvary: As always, another great piece Michael. Sadly, the majority of http://www.huffingtonpost.com/social/George_Ujvary/is-food-writing-impo rtant_b_1903689_190758703.html History | Permalink | Share it This comment has been down-ranked into oblivion. View comment You have not right to carry out this operation or Error this operation. spinner Loading comments… photo blackbirdbakes 293 Fans 09:54 AM on 09/25/2012 Some say there are those that can write, those that can write well, and those that can write well about food. I don't believe this observation is mutually exclusive because Mr. Ruhlman proved that you can be each of these writers rolled into one. A roulade writer. The current state of eating in America is nothing short of shocking and having lived gluten-free for the last decade, I have witnessed the exponential decline in the quality of eating and living. I fight for this notion, this "quality of life." What does this really mean today? Sure the quality of food writing is important, but the crux of the article hinges on the idea that home cookery is a dying craft; an art we are frantically grappling for as it runs through our dysfunctional fingers. I applaud Mr. Ruhlman for his call to arms to do what we are genetically coded to do---to eat from the land and to connect the act of eating with memory, because we are forgetting. We are forgetting who we are, where we came from, and what makes us happy to be human, because and as we continue to forget, we carry ourselves further down the road of a lost culture. blackbirdbakes: Some say there are those that can write, those that http://www.huffingtonpost.com/social/blackbirdbakes/is-food-writing-imp ortant_b_1903689_190564343.html History | Permalink | Share it This comment has been down-ranked into oblivion. View comment You have not right to carry out this operation or Error this operation. spinner Loading comments… mjkblog 7 Fans 08:20 AM on 09/25/2012 I'm so glad I read this. Thank you. mjkblog: I'm so glad I read this. Thank you. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/social/mjkblog/is-food-writing-important_ b_1903689_190544763.html History | Permalink | Share it This comment has been down-ranked into oblivion. View comment You have not right to carry out this operation or Error this operation. spinner Loading comments… photo Nina Ricciardi Quirk 9 Fans 07:52 AM on 09/25/2012 Well said. It stems from people's disconnect with what food actually is to them: the basic element of our life force. Arguably these people are so mentally sickened by eating the wrong foods in the first place that it does not allow their mind space to openly think about it. Those are the people who are rejecting it. Nina_Ricciardi_Quirk: Well said. It stems from people's disconnect with what food http://www.huffingtonpost.com/social/Nina_Ricciardi_Quirk/is-food-writi ng-important_b_1903689_190540555.html History | Permalink | Share it This comment has been down-ranked into oblivion. View comment You have not right to carry out this operation or Error this operation. spinner Loading comments… photo local milk 13 Fans 10:56 PM on 09/24/2012 This. Yes. This was awesome. As long as man has been writing, he has been writing about food. Virginia Woolf wrote of food. Henry Miller wrote of the bits of egg in Boris' goetee and hunger. Cooking is the art of living, rather literally. Bukowski wrote about sandwiches. William Carlos Williams of plums. I can smell fried eggs when I read Calvino. Food writing is writing, and writing is art. And art needs no justification. Anyone who says otherwise is a philistine. Creation is the highest human function, historically divine. Story telling, the mediation of the raw data of experience through language, needn't be justified by mundane utility. Art & food are life blood. And thank god too, what fantastic things to thrive on. local_milk: This. Yes. This was awesome. As long as man has http://www.huffingtonpost.com/social/local_milk/is-food-writing-importa nt_b_1903689_190485695.html History | Permalink | Share it This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program photo sabelmouse i love to tumble , ask me why . 753 Fans 06:01 AM on 09/25/2012 women cook and men write and who does the washing up? sabelmouse: women cook and men write and who does the washing http://www.huffingtonpost.com/social/sabelmouse/is-food-writing-importa nt_b_1903689_190530149.html History | Permalink | Share it photo local milk 13 Fans 04:56 PM on 09/25/2012 Non-sequitur... local_milk: Non-sequitur... http://www.huffingtonpost.com/social/local_milk/is-food-writing-importa nt_b_1903689_190707295.html History | Permalink | Share it This comment has been down-ranked into oblivion. View comment You have not right to carry out this operation or Error this operation. There are More Comments on this Thread. Click Here To See them All spinner Loading comments… This comment has been down-ranked into oblivion. View comment You have not right to carry out this operation or Error this operation. spinner Loading comments… This comment has been down-ranked into oblivion. View comment You have not right to carry out this operation or Error this operation. spinner Loading comments… photo HUFFPOST SUPER USER SalesmanForLife Feed your intellectual appetite! 613 Fans 10:20 PM on 09/24/2012 Food writing has value but it can be shallow as well. The books by Michael Pollen I have found wonderful value in. I have read some pretty shotty food stories and recipe books but there are always good and bad in almost every expression. Be selective and dont immediatly buy an idea or approach. The best food book I have ever read was Feast For All Seasons by Roy Andries De Groot. Of the many books I have read, this one took my breath away and I still relish it and have since it was published in 1976. With so much celebrity out there regarding food, food trends and cooking....this one knocks them all out, for good. SalesmanForLife: Food writing has value but it can be shallow as http://www.huffingtonpost.com/social/SalesmanForLife/is-food-writing-im portant_b_1903689_190477628.html History | Permalink | Share it This comment has been down-ranked into oblivion. View comment You have not right to carry out this operation or Error this operation. spinner Loading comments… JudithMara 0 Fans 07:54 PM on 09/24/2012 This is such an important article and so articulate. Bravo, Michael. I am going to get in touch with you to write for our new magazine: http://whoshungrymagazine.com/. You embody everything we stand for. JudithMara: This is such an important article and so articulate. Bravo, http://www.huffingtonpost.com/social/JudithMara/is-food-writing-importa nt_b_1903689_190443215.html History | Permalink | Share it This comment has been down-ranked into oblivion. 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